Simple Seamless Baby Jacket - a free knitting pattern

My gift to you this week is a lovely pattern to knit a baby jacket from the top down with NO SEAMS to sew up!  Quick and easy and achievable no matter what your knitting ability.  The design is mostly knit stitches only, with a little purling when you work the sleeves in the round - a great introduction to seamless top down knitting!  There is also an option to embroider the jacket if desired!  I chose a lovely slubby boucle cotton yarn which hangs really well too.  A lovely way to smarten up any outfit - very designer with three quarter length puff sleeves and inspired by boxy Chanel boucle jackets.

So here goes:

Simple Seamless Baby Jacket

You will need:

Yarn: 100g (220m) of double knitting / lightly worsted weight yarn (Bergere de France’s Flash yarn used here)
Needles: 4mm / UK size 8 / US size 6 (you can use straight of circular needles for the body and then either DPNs or circular needle via the Magic Loop method for the sleeves)
Yarn needle
1 button
4 stitch markers
Embroidery thread in coordinating colour to embellish the jacket
Gauge: 10cm² = 22 stitches, 38 rows in garter stitch
Measurements:
Finished jacket to fit 0 – 6 mth baby: chest 44cm and length 21 cm approx.
Abbreviations:
K: Knit
PM: place marker
M1:  increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal bar before the next st, and knit into the back of it.
RI:  Raglan Increase over 2 sts:  M1, K1, move marker, K1, M1. (2sts increased to 4 sts)
sts:  stitches
rep:  repeat
P:     Purl
K2tog: decrease 1 st by knitting the next 2 sts together.

Cast on at the neck:
With 4mm needles cast on 47 sts.
Work the set up row (WS row):
K2, PM, K11, PM, K21, PM, K11, PM, K2
Work the raglan yoke of the jacket:
Row 1: *K to 1 st before marker, RI, rep from * 3 more times, K to end. 
Row 2:  K all sts.
Row 3:   as Row 1
Row 4:  as Row 2
Row 5: K1, M1, *K to 1 st before marker, RI, rep from * 3 more times, K to last st, M1, K1.
Row 6: as Row 2
Rep Rows 5 & 6  5 more times.
16  rows worked.(123 sts)
Begin neck shaping and edging:
Row 17: Cast  on 5 sts and work as follows:  *K to 1 st before marker, RI, rep from * 3 more times,  K to end.
Row 18: Cast on 5 sts and work as follows: K to end.
Row 19:  *K to 1 st before marker, RI, rep from * 3 more times, K to end.
Row 20: K all sts.
Repeat Rows 19 & 20, 3 more times.  26 rows worked.  (173 sts)
Divide Stitches (to work the fronts and back together & put sleeve sts on spare yarn
Next row:  K to 1^st marker, place all 37 sts before 2nd marker onto spare yarn, cast on 2  sts, K to 3^rd marker, place all 37 sts before 4^th marker onto a second spare piece of yarn, cast on 2 sts, K to end.  (103 sts)
Work the back and fronts:
K all rows until the back measures 21cm.  Cast off loosely knitwise and break yarn Work the puff  sleeve:
Beginning at the back, with the right side facing, and using a smaller needle, transfer the sleeve sts from the stitch holder to the needle, then pick up 2 sts from the underarm section. (39 sts)
Start working in the round using either DPNs or the Magic Loop method as follows:
Round 1: P all sts.
Round 2: K all sts.
Repeat these 2 rounds until the sleeve measures 10cm from the underarm (or 15cm for a full length sleeve), finishing with a Purl round.
Next round:* K2, K2tog, rep from * to last 3 sts, K1, K2tog. 
Cast off loosely purlwise and break yarn.
Rep for 2^nd sleeve.
Work the neckband & buttonhole:
Beginning with the right front and using a smaller needle, pick up evenly 20 sts along the neck edge, pick up 11 sts across top of right sleeve, pick up 21 sts across back neck edge, pick up 11 sts across the top of the left sleeve & pick up evenly 20 sts down left front.  (83 sts)
Working in rows with 4mm needles, and beginning with the RS facing, K 4 rows.
Row 5: K2, cast off 2 sts, K to end.
Row 6: K to last 2 sts, cast on 2 sts, K2.
Row 7 & 8: K all sts.
Cast off loosely knitwise and break yarn.

Making up:
Sew in all loose ends.  Sew button to the opposite end of the neckband.  If you wish to embroider a flower on the right front, use all 6 strands of embroidery thread and begin at the bottom.  Sew a slightly wiggly stem in chain stitch up the middle of the front, sew a circle of chain stitch for the centre and then sew 6 petals (5 loose chain stitches long) around the centre.  Finish off with a second circle of chain stitch in the centre.  Finished!

You can also find a PDF version of this pattern here.  

 

 

Baby Jingle Ball - a free knitting pattern

Looking for a quick knitting pattern for a unique baby shower present?  This baby jingle ball can easily be made in an evening and is suitable for all knitting abilities.  It is soft, washable and would make a great baby gift!

Knitting Pattern - Baby Jingle Ball

You will need:
Yarn: 25g ball of Aran / Worsted weight Cotton in each of 2 coordinating colours
Needles: 4mm/UK size 8/US size 6
Yarn needle
toy stuffing
craft jingle bell (optional)
Gauge: 10cm² =  16 stitches, 20 rows in stocking stitch stitch
Measurements:
Finished ball measures approx. 12cm (height)
Abbreviations:
K: knit
P: purl
sts: stitches
rep: repeat
P2tog: purl 2 stitches together to decrease 1 st.
kfb: knit into the front & back of the stitch to increase 1 st.
Tips:
If you knit quite loosely, drop a needle size for a tighter woven fabric which is essential for items that are to be stuffed.

Instructions

Cast on 8 sts with yarn A.
Row 1: *kfb, rep from * to end. (16 sts)
Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: P all sts.
Row 3: *kfb, K1, rep from * to end. (24 sts)
Row 4: As row 2.
Row 5: *kfb, K2*, rep from * to end. (32 sts)
Row 7: *kfb, K3, rep from * to end. (40 sts)
Row 9: *kfb, K4, rep from * to end. (48 sts)
Row 11: *kfb, K5, rep from * to end. (56 sts)
Row 13: *kfb, K6, rep from * to end. (64 sts)
Row 15: change to yarn B & K all sts.
Row 16: P all sts.
Row 17: change to yarn B, *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Row 18: *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Rows 19-22: rep rows 17 & 18 2 times.
Row 23: K all sts.
Row 24: P all sts.
Row 25: Change to yarn A & K all sts.
Row 26: *P2tog, P6, rep from * to end. (56 sts)
Row 27: & all remaining odd numbered rows: K all sts.
Row 28: *P2tog, P5, rep from * to end. (48 sts)
Row 30: *P2tog, P4, rep from * to end. (40 sts)
Row 32: *P2tog, P3, rep from * to end. (32 sts)
Row 34: *P2tog, P2, rep from * to end. (24 sts)
Row 36: *P2tog, P1, rep from * to end. (16 sts)
Row 38: *P2tog, rep from * to end. (8 sts)
Break yarn leaving a long tail and thread through all 8 sts.

Making up:

Darn in any loose ends.  With wrong sides facing thread a wool needle onto the tail end and starting at Row 38 sew up the side seam until a 5cm gap remains.  Turn the ball the right side out.  Stuff the ball tightly with toy stuffing, adding a jingle ball to the centre, if desired.  Sew up the remainder of the side seam and sew a row of gathering stitches round the 8 st cast on edge.  Pull tight and fasten off.  Finished and ready to give to baby!

You can also find a PDF version of this pattern here,

Tutorial - How to make a Puppet Theatre from a Shoe Box

This weekend I got crafty with the kids - CB wanted to make her own puppet theatre and presented me with a shoe box.  Well, after a little deliberation, some hunting for materials, a little cutting, sewing, painting and sticking, we came up with this shoe box puppet theatre:

You will need:

• 1 shoe box with lid
• scissors (or Stanley knife)
• 1 thin twig/chop stick/bamboo stick 4 cm longer than the width of the box
• poster paints &/or felt tip pens
• glue & sticky tape
• 2 small pieces of fabric
• needle & thread

Instructions:

1. Mark out with pencil a large arch on the bottom of the deep half of the shoe box - this will be your frame for the theatre.
2. Use scissors or a Stanley knife to cut out the arch and put this piece of card to one side.
3. Use poster paints or felt tip pens to colour the inside of the box - we opted for green for grass on the bottom and blue for the sides and top for the sky.  If you've used paints, leave to dry.
4. Take the spare piece of card (the left over bit of card from the arch) and trace round a cup in the centre of this piece of card to create a clock face.  Add numbers, hands (if desired) and decorate the face.  Cut a semicircle shape out around this clock face ensuring that there is enough room to fold back 1.5cm underneath the clock face.  Decorate the remainder of this piece of card.
5. Take your fabric - you will need 2 pieces - measure the width and height of the shoe box frame and cut 2 pieces of fabric that are 1.5cm longer than the height and 2/3 of the width.  If you have pinking shears, trim round the bottom and sides.  The top edge needs to be folded over 1cm twice and hemmed with a quick running stitch.  Check your twig/chop stick will fit through this hem.  Repeat for the second piece of fabric.
6. Take the twig/chop stick and poke a small hole with scissors through the side of the shoe box frame at the top, push the twig through this hole and put the 2 curtains on the twig/chop stick, making sure you have the right side facing the arch opening.  Then poke a second hole through the top of the other side of the shoe box and push the twig through.  Your curtains are hung - trim if necessary!
7. Glue or stick the clock face to the top of the shoe box frame.
8. Add glue to the bottom of the shoe box frame and attach the frame to the lid of the shoe box to create a shallow base for the puppet theatre.  Leave the glue to set well.

There we go - one puppet theatre from a shoe box finished. CB loves it and has requested more puppets for her shows.  Off to make some sock puppets now!

Tutorial: How to knit a picot flower

Adding flowers to a hat, cardigan (as in the design below), cushion or headband is a great way to add an individual crafty touch - this tutorial will show you how to knit a very simple flower in one piece to add to your project.  If you can cast on, bind off, pick up stitches and use the knit stitch (no purling needed), you can make this flower.

Carina Seamless Top Down Cardigan Knitting Pattern

  

You will need:

• A small amount of spare yarn (double knitting or worsted weight yarn) in a main colour and a second colour (if you want to add spokes).
• knitting needles (I used 2 4mm (US size 6) DPNs as this is a small project)
• 1 button (for a button centre)
• yarn needle and scissors

Abbreviations:
KFB: Knit into the front and back of the stitch to increase 1 stitch.
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
st: stitch
sts: stitches

First make the centre:
Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: KFB, K1, KFB. (5 sts)

Rows 2: KFB, K3, KFB. (7sts)

3- 6: K all sts.

Row 7: K2tog, K3, K2tog. (5sts)

Row 8: K2tog, K1, K2tog. (3sts)

Bind off sts but put final st back on the left hand needle.

 

Pick up sts round the centre to make the picot petals:

*Cast on 3 sts to the left hand needle (4sts), bind off 3 sts, pick up and knit 1 st from the edge and slip the last st on the right hand needle over this st and put remaining st back on the left hand needle.  Rep from * aiming to create 10 – 12 picots round the centre.

When you have worked all the way round the centre, cut the yarn leaving a long tail end and thread this through the final stitch. 

 Finishing off:

Thread the yarn onto a needle and work a circle of running stitch round the edge of the centre, just below the picots.  Pull the yarn tight to gather the centre and pull the picot petals into a circle, secure on the reverse.

You can finish off the flower in different ways:

1.  Sew a button to the centre.

2. Thread your coordinating yarn onto the needle and secure to the back of the flower.  Bring the needle through to the very centre of the flower and then place the needle and yarn between 2 petals to create a spoke and bring the needle back through the centre of the back of the flower to the front - repeat until you have sewn a spoke in between each of the petals.  Secure the yarn at the back.

3. Complete step 2 and then step 1 for spokes and a button centre.

You can make a larger flower by using thicker yarn and needles.  You can also make longer petals by increasing the number of stitches you cast on and bind off for each picot petal. 

 

The wonder of mohair - a free scarf knitting pattern

I had been lusting after this Rowan yarn - kidsilk haze stripe - for quite some time, pondering the fabulous array of colours (thanks to Kaffe Fassett ) and how no two balls looked the same and wondering just how you could make a scarf from one ball.  Well you can - here it is!

The colours are amazing, the yarn whilst thin, is incredibly strong and the drape of the mohair is excellent.  Rowan have very kindly added a pattern to the reverse of the label, but I wanted to add a little lace into my mohair scarf and designed this alternative pattern - alternating between blocks of lacy rib and moss stitch. 

Marvellous Multicolour Mohair Scarf:

With 5mm needles cast on 57sts.

Begin the lacy rib pattern block:

Row 1 (WS):*K2, P3, rep from * to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 2 (RS): *P2, K3, rep from * to last 2 sts, P2.
Row 3: *K2, P3tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 4: *P2, yo, K1, yo, rep from * to last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat this 4 row pattern until 9 pattern repeats (36 rows) worked in total.

Begin the moss/seed stitch pattern block:

All rows: *K1, P1, rep to last st, K1.

Work 15cm in this pattern ending with a RS row.

Continue to alternate these 2 pattern blocks, aiming to end with a lacy rib pattern block, yarn permitting.  The scarf still works well if you have to cast off before the end of a block.

Cast off after either Row 1 or 2 of the lacy rib pattern in pattern.  Darn in yarn ends.

Finished and ready to wear with pride.

You can also find a PDF version of this mohair scarf pattern here.